Cymbidium grandiflora, commonly known as Hutoulan and Huangliaolan, is a remarkable tropical orchid celebrated for its wide variety, large blossoms, and extended blooming period. It typically flowers from November to May of the following year. Despite its beauty, many people are hesitant due to the belief that it's expensive and hard to care for, often giving up after the flowers fade. However, Cymbidium is actually easier to grow than other orchids if you understand its specific needs. With proper care after flowering, it can thrive and bloom again.
First, temperature plays a key role in Cymbidium’s growth. It thrives best between 10°C and 35°C, with ideal daytime temperatures around 20–30°C and nighttime temperatures between 8–20°C. During hot seasons, maintaining an 85% humidity level helps the plant stay cool. Most varieties need a day-night temperature difference of 10–15°C, with a maximum daily temperature not exceeding 28°C. Flower bud differentiation usually takes about 50 days, and the development of these buds into full blooms requires a cooler environment. At 15°C, flowers can last over three months, but keeping them open too long may weaken the plant. To prevent this, it's best to cut the flower stems when the first one or two flowers open. The cut flowers can be enjoyed for 2–3 weeks, and the remaining plant will receive more light and stay slightly drier. Flower buds form during high-temperature periods (around August), but they require temperatures below 20°C to develop properly. Too much heat can cause bud drop, while cold temperatures can lead to rot. So, planting should be done in a cool location during this time.
Second, humidity and watering are essential. Cymbidium prefers high air humidity, ideally 80–90%. You can increase humidity by misting, using water trays, or placing basins. However, it is semi-aerobic, so the growing medium must not remain soggy. Watering should follow the "dry and wet" principle—water thoroughly when dry, and avoid overwatering. In spring, autumn, and winter, water every 3–4 days, increasing frequency as temperatures rise. In summer, mist the leaves twice a day to maintain humidity and prevent yellowing. Good ventilation is crucial in high-humidity environments to prevent disease. Use rainwater or river water if possible; if using tap water, let it sit for a while before use.
Third, lighting is critical. Cymbidium requires about 15,000–17,000 lux, roughly half of natural sunlight. Strong light promotes robust growth, thick leaves, full pseudobulbs, and vibrant flowers. Insufficient light leads to weak plants, thin leaves, and fewer blooms. During hot weather, provide 50–70% shade to prevent leaf burn. In winter and spring, keep the light strong without shading. In North China, from late April to early May, you can place the plant outside or on an unshaded balcony, providing about 50% shade and ensuring good airflow.
Fourth, fertilization is important. Cymbidium grows rapidly in spring and summer, requiring adequate nutrients to support pseudobulb growth and flower bud formation. Apply fertilizer before flowering and before the next season. Avoid fertilizing during blooming and summer. Dilute liquid fertilizer at 1:1000 and apply once a week. A balanced NPK ratio of 1:2:2 works well. Stop nitrogen fertilizer six months before flowering to encourage blooming. In spring and summer, use diluted compound fertilizer weekly. In fall, switch to high-potassium fertilizer every two weeks. No fertilizer is needed in winter.
Fifth, repotting and propagation are necessary. After flowering, repot and divide the plants based on their size to prepare for the next season. Repotting is best done between late March and early May. Use a mix rich in humus, loose, well-draining, and slightly acidic (pH 5.5). Materials like bark and volcanic ash can be used after soaking for 24 hours. When repotting, remove old soil, trim damaged roots, and expose the pseudobulbs. Sterilize roots in a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes, then wrap them in moss and place in a new pot. Keep the plant in partial shade for two weeks without watering, only misting the leaves if needed. This encourages new root growth and prevents rot.
Sixth, bringing the plant indoors is essential when temperatures drop below 10°C, usually around National Day. Clean the pots and disinfect the plants before moving them inside. Place them near a sunny window, and secure any foil-wrapped plants with wire.
Lastly, pest control is vital. Common issues include anthracnose, blight, and gray mold. Prevention involves improving air circulation and reducing humidity. Spray mancozeb, Previcur, or carbendazim solutions weekly for three consecutive weeks to manage these diseases effectively.
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